February 10 :: Richard Toll, Senegal
February 10 :: Richard Toll, Senegal :: 118km / 2510km total
Up and on the road properly early today, riding through the cool morning air, not going to make the same mistake twice! Out of Tiguent the land quickly began to roll, much like the drumlins and river valleys of farmland Southern Ontario in profile, but of course different in almost every other way. Still desert, the Harmattan really picked up today giving the sky an orange hue all around. This was not a good thing for me as the final 35km to the border turned Eastwards into the teeth of the storm. A very difficult sandy, gritty, slow finale of Mauritania.
But eventually the border town of Rosso, Mauritania appeared through the haze and I pulled in for a big plate of spaghetti and numerous drinks. Still spitting out sand I changed my money and braced for the border police. This border is notorious for hassles ('exit taxes') and yes, the policeman made his attempt with me. The trick is to get hold of your passport after he's stamped it, while still in 'discussion'. After that he's pretty much got nothing to go on, since there is no such thing as an exit tax at any border that I've ever crossed.
Onto the pirogue (see pics) for the journey across the first river I've seen in about 1500km... to Senegal! How beautiful to see green again. Rosso, Senegal had no accomodation so I set out to cycle the 18km to the nearest town of Richard Toll. I was in an extremely good mood and didn't even bother putting my cleated cycling shoes back on, just lazing along in my sandals.
Crossing the Senegal River
Ice cream all around for everyone!!
Camels on their way to market
Hello from Senegal!!!
Up and on the road properly early today, riding through the cool morning air, not going to make the same mistake twice! Out of Tiguent the land quickly began to roll, much like the drumlins and river valleys of farmland Southern Ontario in profile, but of course different in almost every other way. Still desert, the Harmattan really picked up today giving the sky an orange hue all around. This was not a good thing for me as the final 35km to the border turned Eastwards into the teeth of the storm. A very difficult sandy, gritty, slow finale of Mauritania.
But eventually the border town of Rosso, Mauritania appeared through the haze and I pulled in for a big plate of spaghetti and numerous drinks. Still spitting out sand I changed my money and braced for the border police. This border is notorious for hassles ('exit taxes') and yes, the policeman made his attempt with me. The trick is to get hold of your passport after he's stamped it, while still in 'discussion'. After that he's pretty much got nothing to go on, since there is no such thing as an exit tax at any border that I've ever crossed.
Onto the pirogue (see pics) for the journey across the first river I've seen in about 1500km... to Senegal! How beautiful to see green again. Rosso, Senegal had no accomodation so I set out to cycle the 18km to the nearest town of Richard Toll. I was in an extremely good mood and didn't even bother putting my cleated cycling shoes back on, just lazing along in my sandals.
Imediately I loved Senegal... the cultivated fields, the friendly easygoing people, the beautiful road. It reminded me of all the good things about India without the one main bad thing of the Subcontinent... the road here was extremely lightly trafficked. Also a dramatic contrast to Mauritania is the women here... they are not sequestered away, they are very out and about, brightly dressed and smiling, seemingly more on equal footing here. Although Senegal is still a predominantly Muslim country it already seems to be a very watered down, more easy-going take on the religion. At stops when groups form around me asking the usual nationality, age etc. questions women are right in there with the men, asking away, a huge change. All in all a great start to sub-Saharan Africa.
posted by Graham Durrant at 10:05 AM
2 Comments:
Great pics. Senegal is also the home of a singer called Youssou N'dour, whose music is very uplifting. Obviously reflects the spirit of his country.
Senegal rocks so far... but I've only been here 2 days. By the way Youssou N'Dour is a polygamist, a controversial thing here. ;-)
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