February 3:: Bou Lanouar, Mauritania
February 3:: Bou Lanouar, Mauritania :: 131km / 1889km total
Up pre-dawn to check the wind, ya, still strong, still tail. So I packed and left, time for a new country! I took it easy throught the final 85km of Morocco, savouring it, Morocco has been great. Past sand dunes, sand-weathered rock formations, rolling hills... to the border at 11 a.m. I whisked through, but those with vehicles were being worked over by the Moroccan police.
Then into the minefield... literally. Although Morocco and Mauritania are not at war, and haven't had grievances for about 20 years, there's a 3km no-mans land minefield between the 2 countries. There is a sandy track to follow, and thats about it. The rule... DON'T GO OFF THE TRACK. Not rocket science, you would think; but apparently 2 weeks ago four people blew themselves up by being stupid. I rode-pushed my bike along, and eventually came across the little hut that meant I was in Mauritania. Some travellers have reported bribe problems with the police-customs here, but they were more amused with me, than anything, and the visa was easy and painless.
Back in the saddle, I knew tough times were ahead. After reaching the main road I turned East, into the full blast of the NE Harmattan, for 38km. Immediately noticable is how much poorer Mauritania is compared to Morocco... dramatic. It really feels like "Africa" now, whereas Morocco felt like the more afluent Middle Eastern countries that I've been to. Slowly, slowly in my lowest gear I burrowed into the wind, for hour after hour, now the heat playing a factor for the first time this trip. Eventually I reached Bou Lanoaur and a great little auberge for the night.
Up pre-dawn to check the wind, ya, still strong, still tail. So I packed and left, time for a new country! I took it easy throught the final 85km of Morocco, savouring it, Morocco has been great. Past sand dunes, sand-weathered rock formations, rolling hills... to the border at 11 a.m. I whisked through, but those with vehicles were being worked over by the Moroccan police.
Then into the minefield... literally. Although Morocco and Mauritania are not at war, and haven't had grievances for about 20 years, there's a 3km no-mans land minefield between the 2 countries. There is a sandy track to follow, and thats about it. The rule... DON'T GO OFF THE TRACK. Not rocket science, you would think; but apparently 2 weeks ago four people blew themselves up by being stupid. I rode-pushed my bike along, and eventually came across the little hut that meant I was in Mauritania. Some travellers have reported bribe problems with the police-customs here, but they were more amused with me, than anything, and the visa was easy and painless.
Back in the saddle, I knew tough times were ahead. After reaching the main road I turned East, into the full blast of the NE Harmattan, for 38km. Immediately noticable is how much poorer Mauritania is compared to Morocco... dramatic. It really feels like "Africa" now, whereas Morocco felt like the more afluent Middle Eastern countries that I've been to. Slowly, slowly in my lowest gear I burrowed into the wind, for hour after hour, now the heat playing a factor for the first time this trip. Eventually I reached Bou Lanoaur and a great little auberge for the night.
posted by Graham Durrant at 7:46 AM
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