March 13 :: Faro, Portugal - FINAL POST!!
March 13 :: Faro, Portugal :: 6km / 4356km total
Over to the bike store in the morning to retrieve a bike box, all good, all set for the flights home. A slow, easy day here in Faro, with lots of rest. At 2am I'll leave my hotel, empty bike box strapped to my back, and ride the short 6km to the airport. There, I'll disassemble and pack the bike for my early morning flight to London. I've pegged the British Museum and a late-closing art gallery as my 'things to do' in the short day and night that I have in London, then back to Gatwick airport for my morning return flight to Toronto. I'm not expecting anything interesting to report for my homeward leg, so this is my final post.
Well, its been another great trip. A short summary of the countries I've been to for future reference, and for travellers (and/or cyclists) who come across this blog:
Morocco: The North was greener and hillier than expected, very pleasant. Roads were in great condition and temperatures were moderate in January, when I was there. Beautiful riding. The people were friendly, but there were still attempts to 'rip off the foreigner'. The prices moderate, and the food was good, heavily French-influenced. Fes and Marrakech are very worthwhile places to see. The South, the Western Sahara, was, well, desert with long distances between supply points and accomodation, but my favourite part of Morocco. I crossed the Sahara without a tent or sleeping bag, from North to South, only possible with a flat road and the strong prevailing Harmattan wind from the North (average days around 175km through here). I could not have done it un-tented from South to North.
Mauritania: Poorer and more desolate than the Western Sahara, it was a difficult crossing. There are 'auberges' spaced every 50km or so, on average, but they are of the most basic of conditions, with questionable hygeine. I'm used to basic conditions, but my limits were tested here. The road is dead flat, but the wind is the most vicious here - a headwind day saw me struggle less than 100km, a tailwind sandstorm day blew me 300km in 10 hours. To tell the truth, I was slightly relieved to cross the border into Senegal.
Senegal: This is Sub-Saharan, 'black' Africa, and probably my favourite country in West Africa. Good roads, friendly, laid-back people, and a nice savannah landscape made for great cycling and a great stay. A bit more expensive than Morocco or Mauritania, but with that comes better food options and accomodation. I loathed Dakar, particularly from a cycling standpoint, with its diesel-choking roads, aggressive drivers, slightly dangerous undertone, and strained infrastructure. Some nice beaches in Senegal, and its moderately-well set up for the independent traveller.
Gambia: I was only in the touristed coastal area, and hence saw the worst face of Gambia - demands for money for the slightest of help, outrageous starting prices for haggling, etc. Even though it was English-speaking and hence easier for me to travel around, I didn't really like the high-pressure, lets-get-money-from-this-tourist Gambians. I'm stereotyping, of course, they weren't all like that, but certainly much more so than in Senegal, on average. Gambia had my favourite place to stay, however, the overlanders mecca of Camping Sukuta.
Sierra Leone: The early March heat confined my experience of Sierra Leone to the coastal areas, and about 50km inland. Sierra Leone ranks 2nd last in the UN's human development index, and its evident as to why, when you're here, riding along the roads. Even though tourism is relatively absent the people were the most aggressive of all in pestering me for money, which was understandable, but highly disenchanting. The heat drove me from Sierra Leone earlier than expected, but I can't say I was disappointed to leave.
Portugal: Well, whats there not to say about Portugal. Fantastic, friendly, helpful people; beautifully scenic, winding roads for cycling; respectful drivers; history; fantastic food; and cheap! Portugal was only slightly more expensive than Senegal, but you get SO much more bang for your (cycling) buck in Portugal.
Is it fair to compare Portugal to West Africa? The answer is so complex. At what point do you draw the line between the advantages vs disadvantages of colonialism... how long should a country be self-determining before you hold the locals responsible for their own state of affairs... is foreign aid actually a good thing, and how much of it is enough, or not enough, or too much? Sigh. Impossible answers? No. It just requires a few more countries of cycling... then I'll figure it all out... so until next time... bye!
Over to the bike store in the morning to retrieve a bike box, all good, all set for the flights home. A slow, easy day here in Faro, with lots of rest. At 2am I'll leave my hotel, empty bike box strapped to my back, and ride the short 6km to the airport. There, I'll disassemble and pack the bike for my early morning flight to London. I've pegged the British Museum and a late-closing art gallery as my 'things to do' in the short day and night that I have in London, then back to Gatwick airport for my morning return flight to Toronto. I'm not expecting anything interesting to report for my homeward leg, so this is my final post.
Well, its been another great trip. A short summary of the countries I've been to for future reference, and for travellers (and/or cyclists) who come across this blog:
Morocco: The North was greener and hillier than expected, very pleasant. Roads were in great condition and temperatures were moderate in January, when I was there. Beautiful riding. The people were friendly, but there were still attempts to 'rip off the foreigner'. The prices moderate, and the food was good, heavily French-influenced. Fes and Marrakech are very worthwhile places to see. The South, the Western Sahara, was, well, desert with long distances between supply points and accomodation, but my favourite part of Morocco. I crossed the Sahara without a tent or sleeping bag, from North to South, only possible with a flat road and the strong prevailing Harmattan wind from the North (average days around 175km through here). I could not have done it un-tented from South to North.
Mauritania: Poorer and more desolate than the Western Sahara, it was a difficult crossing. There are 'auberges' spaced every 50km or so, on average, but they are of the most basic of conditions, with questionable hygeine. I'm used to basic conditions, but my limits were tested here. The road is dead flat, but the wind is the most vicious here - a headwind day saw me struggle less than 100km, a tailwind sandstorm day blew me 300km in 10 hours. To tell the truth, I was slightly relieved to cross the border into Senegal.
Senegal: This is Sub-Saharan, 'black' Africa, and probably my favourite country in West Africa. Good roads, friendly, laid-back people, and a nice savannah landscape made for great cycling and a great stay. A bit more expensive than Morocco or Mauritania, but with that comes better food options and accomodation. I loathed Dakar, particularly from a cycling standpoint, with its diesel-choking roads, aggressive drivers, slightly dangerous undertone, and strained infrastructure. Some nice beaches in Senegal, and its moderately-well set up for the independent traveller.
Gambia: I was only in the touristed coastal area, and hence saw the worst face of Gambia - demands for money for the slightest of help, outrageous starting prices for haggling, etc. Even though it was English-speaking and hence easier for me to travel around, I didn't really like the high-pressure, lets-get-money-from-this-tourist Gambians. I'm stereotyping, of course, they weren't all like that, but certainly much more so than in Senegal, on average. Gambia had my favourite place to stay, however, the overlanders mecca of Camping Sukuta.
Sierra Leone: The early March heat confined my experience of Sierra Leone to the coastal areas, and about 50km inland. Sierra Leone ranks 2nd last in the UN's human development index, and its evident as to why, when you're here, riding along the roads. Even though tourism is relatively absent the people were the most aggressive of all in pestering me for money, which was understandable, but highly disenchanting. The heat drove me from Sierra Leone earlier than expected, but I can't say I was disappointed to leave.
Portugal: Well, whats there not to say about Portugal. Fantastic, friendly, helpful people; beautifully scenic, winding roads for cycling; respectful drivers; history; fantastic food; and cheap! Portugal was only slightly more expensive than Senegal, but you get SO much more bang for your (cycling) buck in Portugal.
Is it fair to compare Portugal to West Africa? The answer is so complex. At what point do you draw the line between the advantages vs disadvantages of colonialism... how long should a country be self-determining before you hold the locals responsible for their own state of affairs... is foreign aid actually a good thing, and how much of it is enough, or not enough, or too much? Sigh. Impossible answers? No. It just requires a few more countries of cycling... then I'll figure it all out... so until next time... bye!
posted by Graham Durrant at 11:53 AM
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